We had the rare opportunity to work with the Yiwu tea leaves from the spring harvest, experiencing the process from start to finish.

The tea leaves are carefully picked from the arbor trees and then spread evenly over the “bed” — a flat surface similar to a bed frame but without a mattress — to wilt and wither for a period of time.
The leaves feel quite warm because they have already begun oxidizing in the baskets during their descent from the mountains. The perforated netting allows the leaves to breathe and cool down, which rapidly slows the natural fermentation. This extended withering time is crucial for developing the tea’s flavor, and many tea producers experiment with this part of the process. If withering goes on too long, the leaves can progress into the black (red) tea stage. Some manufacturers use advanced cooling systems equipped with vents to precisely control this phase.

A few hours later, the most critical and challenging part of the process begins.

Kill green ” Sha Qing ”  – the process which stops enzyme activity in green leafs and therefore stops The oxidation (or fermentation) phase is the most technically demanding part of the tea processing. Large companies and factories typically employ drum-shaped frying machines that ensure uniform treatment of each batch, resulting in consistent flavor profiles. In contrast, farmers and small-scale producers use large wok pans and manually process the leaves.
Key factors influencing the final flavor and quality of the tea include processing time, temperature, batch size (amount of tea leaves in the wok per session), and the technique used to flip the leaves during frying. Temperature and duration of oxidation critically define the tea’s character; incorrect control can lead to overly smoky, roasted notes or result in a flavor and character closer to green tea.
In traditional small-scale setups, temperature control is fully manual, and timing is guided by the master’s sensory judgment—often relying on smell to determine the optimal moment to stop processing. Each batch typically consists of 5 to 8 kilograms of fresh leaves. Processing larger batches becomes difficult to control evenly, increasing the risk of burning some leaves, while smaller batches require more frequent flipping, which also complicates control.
Due to these variables, each batch can have a slightly different flavor, causing minor variations in the final products such as tea cakes. Once frying is complete, the leaves are spread immediately on bamboo trays to cool, followed by mechanical rubbing using specialized machines to enhance texture and flavor development.

In some regions, this process is still performed entirely by hand, which is an incredibly demanding and labor-intensive task. This manual method is often reserved for premium teas commanding high prices or for farmers who lack access to mechanized equipment.

The leaves are naturally sun-dried and then carefully separated from the “Huang Pian” (yellow leaves). Removing these yellow leaves elevates the quality and grade of the final tea. However, most farmers prefer to keep them mixed when producing autumn tea. Huang Pian leaves themselves have a distinct sweet, fruity, and plum-like flavor and are commonly used by farmers for everyday drinking tea.

The final stage is pressing into cakes , balls or bricks and wrapping.